Guidebook
Segment 10: Pinaleno Mountains 24.9
miles
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Segment
Length
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from
PHX
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to
ABQ
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Segment
Status
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Season
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24.9
mi.
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184
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finalized
& accessible
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spring,
summer, fall
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| Resources |
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OVERVIEW
MAP
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ELEVATION
PROFILE
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G.E.T. Topo Maps 30-32
Water Chart
Image Gallery: Album
3
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Additional
maps:
Coronado N.F. Safford & Santa Catalina
Ranger Districts (USFS)
visit PLIC website
Land management agency:
Coronado National Forest Safford Ranger District (928)
428-4150
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| Beginning
access point |
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Ending
access point |
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FR
286 at FR 675. From Safford, take US 70 west to Pima
and turn left at sign for Tripp Canyon Road / FR 286. Reach
an intersection with Patterson Mesa Rd within a half mile
and turn left. FR 286 resumes at right within a quarter
mile, marked by metal signs (brief easement through private
land). A large swinging gate soon encountered should be
left as it was found. Proceed southwest on dirt 2WD FR 286.
In ~15 miles from Pima reach a junction with 4WD FR 351.
Keep straight on FR 286, heading up Tripp Canyon. A dirt
lot and car camping area is on the right at ~19 mi. from
Pima, at a signed junction with FR 675. (A 4WD vehicle
could also get here via Klondyke Rd by following the directions
for the "beginning access point" for Segment 9,
but turning off at FR 351, taking this 4WD road to the junction
with FR 286, and continuing as described above.)
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FR
307 at Ash Creek Trailhead. From Safford, follow US
70 west to Pima, then take Main St south to its end. Turn
right on Cottonwood Rd, then left on dirt 2WD Cluff Ranch
Rd. Reach Cluff Ranch wildlife management area in 4 mi,
where 2WD vehicles should park (~5 mi before the actual
Ending Access Point for Seg 10). High-clearance 4WD may
continue on Cluff Ranch Rd (now concurrent with the GET
walking route in Segment 11). Keep left at the fork by main
entrance to Cluff Ranch, then turn left at a 3-way junction
onto signed Berry Patch Rd. Stay on the main road, which
becomes 4WD Ash Creek Rd (FR 307) and follows an old water
pipeline. The rough road, which crosses Ash Creek three
times, ends in ~4 mi from Berry Patch Rd jct, at a turnout
not far beyond the trailhead, which is signed with a metal
post.
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SEGMENT
OVERVIEW
The Pinalenos
are a range defined by their considerable prominence. Rising to
a height of nearly 11,000 feet above the sea, they are by a respectable
margin the tallest of the true Southwestern Sky Islands. The range
culminates atop Mount Graham - with a vertical relief of nearly
8000 feet, the most prominent peak in the state of Arizona. According
to the Nature
Conservancy, the Pinalenos traverse five ecological communities
and "contain the highest diversity of habitats in the shortest
vertical distance of any mountain range in North America."
Prickly pear and agave are at home here, only a few trail miles
below an old growth forest of spruce and fir - the southernmost
such forest on the continent.
In this segment
our route traverses a portion of this remarkable range, often
nicknamed simply "the Grahams." Using a combination
of foot trails and pleasant forest roads, the GET follows the
main northwest-southeast trending ridgeline, passing near scenic
Riggs Lake, climbing forested Webb Peak (10,030'), and passing
within range of the historic summer cabins at Old Columbine, before
descending sharply along the range's dramatic east face toward
the Gila Valley. The route bypasses the summit of Mount Graham
itself, as the trails there are currently off-limits for the purpose
of protecting one of the mountain's rare wonders, the Mount Graham
red squirrel, found only here. For nearly two decades the mountain
and its endangered red squirrels have been the unlikely subject
of controversy between wildlife conservationists and the astronomical
community, since the Pinalenos are also now home to the Mt Graham
International Observatory, and indeed the dark, clear skies atop
the range make this among the world's premier locations for stargazing.
Nature and science appear to be coexisting for now, however harmoniously;
hikers will note the telescope housing atop Graham's summit from
several vantages along the route.
In June and
July of 2004, the lightning-caused Nuttall Complex fire burned
some 30,000 acres of forest and brush, mostly on the Pinaleno's
steep east-facing slopes. This fire and attendant erosion have
caused considerable damage to the trail network as well as the
ecology on this part of the range. Thankfully, Ash Creek Trail,
which the GET uses here, received a trail crew in 2009 and was
in excellent shape at that time. (Forested Ash Creek Canyon was
largely spared the direct effects of the fire, but not the subsequent
flooding.) Still, several small burn areas and sections of vague
or overgrown tread create ongoing challenges elsewhere in this
segment; in addition to this guide description and the topo map
set, plan to pack along an adventurous attitude - the rugged scenery
here will reward those who are willing to persevere.
Spring season
snowpack poses another potential challenge. Snow on the Pinalenos
often lingers above 9000 feet well into April, or later following
an especially wet winter. As such, eastbound thru-hikers can expect
to encounter at least some snowpack between milepoints 9 and 21
in this segment, and may want to remain open to the idea of detouring
to avoid some or all of it. The primary concerns are the labor
of postholing through saturated spring snow and the challenge
of following snowbound trail, although slope exposure may also
be of concern near Clark Peak, largely avoidable with care. Refer
to the route details below for more specific info, as well as
the Snow Travel chapter of the
GET Trek Planner.
ROUTE
DETAILS
Hikers intending
to traverse this entire segment may prefer to make use of the
FR 286 Alternate in the segment's early miles. This alternate
route avoids Johns Canyon Ridge Trail 313, which can be difficult
to follow for a mile or so due to ill-defined and overgrown trail.
Elsewhere this trail is in ok condition, if a bit brushy. The
trail's allure, compared with the alternate route, is that it
offers a more trail-intensive, scenic, and remote hiking experience
on the way up to the crest. It may be particularly attractive
to westbounders, who get to descend this trail from the crest
so are less affected by its scant water resources (see below).
Maintenance and flagging on Trail 313 is ongoing, although enough
flagging was set in spring 2010 to render the trail more easily
followable (for as long as the flags hold). In any case, the main
route of the GET - between MP 0 of this segment and its reconvergence
with the FR 286 Alternate at MP 7.5 - is described first, below,
followed by the alternate route description. Whichever way you
opt to begin this segment, be sure to avail yourself of the water
often found in Tripp Canyon
- described at the start of the FR 286 Alternate Route description
- as there are few convenient, reliable sources between here and
Riggs Lake nearly 14 steep, uphill miles away.
To follow
the main route of the GET between MP 0 and 7.5 in this segment,
rather than the FR 286 Alternate Route, take FR 675 southwest
(from the unsigned junction with segment 9's 2-track road (waypoint
09160, elev. 5260'). FR 675, a pleasant, little-used 4WD track,
heads up the pinyon-juniper-live oak-shaded bottom of Tripp Canyon,
soon crossing the main drainage to follow its north side (water
in wetter times). It crosses back in about a half mile, near where
the side drainage of Johns Canyon enters from the left (water
in wetter times). Above this confluence, the main canyon changes
names from Tripp to Bellows Canyon. Ignore several left-forking
tracks off the main road, which gradually climbs with the canyon
bottom. Note occasional camping potential near roadside in this
area - a safe enough bet for solitude. FR 675 ends at a small
"turnout" (if that) along the boulder-strewn east bank
of Bellows Canyon's drainage (1.2, waypoint 10015), the
unsigned trailhead for Johns Canyon Ridge Trail 313.
Possibly marked
by a cairn but otherwise unsigned, Trail 313 first runs south
through woods near the drainage's left bank, then crosses it in
less than a tenth of a mile. Somewhat faint but followable, the
trail remains near the drainage, crossing it two more times. Near
a fourth crossing note an old stock trough, no longer functional,
and a little cement dam, which
holds back a modest-sized pool of good water in wetter times (other
times dry). Natural pools and drainage
flow at the fifth and final drainage crossing (1.8,
waypoint 10020) are likewise ephemeral, though fairly likely in
early to mid spring following an average or better winter. Top
off water bottles if fortunate here, as Riggs Lake is your next
likely near-route water source.
Trail 313
soon switchbacks out of the drainage bottom - leaving it for good
- and begins a sidehill ascent of the canyon's west slope. Although
somewhat brushy with live oak, manzanita, and mountain mahogany,
the tread along this portion is good and the trail is scenic.
Occasional blowdowns pose just a minor nuisance as the trail gains
elevation, eventually trending east through a shady side canyon,
then up to a pleasant saddle, with camping potential (3.3,
waypoint 10030, elev. 6803'). The trail leaves the saddle at the
10 o'clock position (southeast), where it runs near a fenceline
for a time, with impressive first views away to the south and
west that include upper Aravaipa Valley and the Galiuro Mountains.
(Westbounders, the trail descends from the saddle on its north
side.)
Now the trail
sidehills around a steep portion of its namesake Johns Canyon
Ridge, bending southeast and then south, and deftly negotiating
around several crags, more of which are visible in Johns Canyon
below. FR 286 can also be seen from this area, its torturous bends
gouged from the ridge beyond Johns Canyon. The trail becomes increasingly
faint due to lack of use and occasional obscuring deadfall, but
remains followable with care. Top out on the forested crest of
Johns Canyon Ridge at 4.1 (waypoint 10040, elev. 7143'),
and follow it southeast, the trail playing hide-and-seek among
corridors of brush. At 4.5, watch closely for where the
trail leaves the ridge crest on the left (the crest becomes impassably
steep), again sidehilling, though awkwardly now. (GPS at MP4.5:
32 44.014 110 03.498) (Westbounders, join a narrow portion
of the ridge crest at this waypoint and follow the ridge south
to 4.1, where the trail leaves the ridge again to sidehill once
more on its right side, and gradually improving in character.)
For the next
mile or so the trail is considerably harder - sometimes impossible
- to follow, due to an old burn scar (albeit regenerating well)
and attendant erosion of the tread, brushy regrowth, and the like.
Watch for flagging and cairns, and follow this description carefully.
After briefly contouring southeast from 4.5, the trail climbs
south and quickly becomes lost among the oaks. However the tread
resumes several yards in elevation higher along the slope to your
right - look for flagging leading up there, or seek out an obvious
copse of mature saplings with a little tunnel recently "lopped"
through it. (Westbounders, losing the trail beyond this copse,
head directly downslope a few yards then turn left along your
original bearing to soon relocate tread.)
The trails
contours south through the copse of saplings to begin a section
of switchbacks that head generally up the broad "drainage"
here. However some of the switchbacks have been lost to time and
the elements. In any case, look for flagging, which first leads
steeply up and over a nuisance blowdown. Several switchbacks later,
the trail turns sharply left by a low-branched Douglas fir. If
you accidentally continue straight here, you'll reach some prominent
outlooks to the south and west but will need to turn back as the
side trail leading there abruptly dead-ends.) (Westbounders
turn right by the Douglas fir.)
Again the
trail becomes faint as it heads up the broad ridge, now in a more
open area. Once more you may be lured out toward a southwestward
aspect with far-flung views but here again the cairned "spur
trail" dead-ends, so return to the broad portion of the slope
and follow a path of least resistance ever upward. The good news
is that the trail becomes followable again within a tenth of a
mile up the slope, but it's marked by a cairn on a ledge that's
easy to miss. This important cairn is located at GPS: 32 43.970
110 03.127. (The cairn is just left of the broad portion
of the slope as the slope starts to steepen in that direction.)
(Westbounders, from this cairn follow a path of least resistant
down the broad portion of the slope, where former switchbacks
have eroded. Avoid wandering out along the western edge of the
ridge where it drops steeply away, despite any evidence of a trail
you may find out that way. If in doubt, seek out the following
waypoint, about a tenth of a mile below the "important cairn,"
for guidance: 32 43.942 110 03.246. Then look for a resumption
of trail tread farther below along the same general bearing.)
Turn right
(south) just above the ledge cairn to pick up the sidehilling
trail, which features shin-high brush initially. More cairns soon
greet you at another turn - this time left (west). Now a line
of cairns marks the trail at intervals leading to a broad, park-like
setting with scattered pines, some with i-blazes cut into the
bark. Again the trail turns - here toward the right (south) -
ascends a little rise, then contours with sporadic cairns toward
a somewhat faint switchback that climbs left (west). Trail 313
soon reaches the edge of the old burn area, heading obviously
back into mixed conifer forest cover at GPS: 32 43.906 110
02.907 (MP 5.6). (Westbounders, from this waypoint follow
faint tread west to a switchback, then look for cairned trail
contouring north, soon over a little rise, then dipping to a park-like
setting. Here note i-blazes on trees with cairned trail heading
west, then turning south to reach a prominent cairn on a ledge,
the "important cairn" with GPS waypoint listed in the
previous paragraph above.)
Routefinding
challenges - and most of the elevation gain - now behind you,
follow Trail 313 as it wends its way west and south, first back
into park-like terrain to a minor saddle with camping prospects
- then on a brushy westward contour. A junction with Trail 323
at 5.8, shown on the map, was not noted. However an old
signboard still marks the junction with equally-moribund Trail
312 farther ahead at waypoint 10060, with a reference to Coulter
Spring (2500 vertical feet below according to maps,
unvisited). Our trail - still Johns Canyon Ridge Tr 313 - turns
left at the sign, climbing through another old burn area via several
cairned switchbacks, and ending at an unsigned trailhead turnout
along 4WD West Peak Road at 6.3 (waypoint 10070, elev.
8587'). (Westbounders, turn left into the turnout for Trail
313 just before West Peak Road goes through the notch on the ridge.)
(A brief detour south on West Peak Rd (aka FR 286) leads to a
gated side road accessing the summit of West Peak and its old
firetower, which may be locked, but the views are good from ground
level, as is the camping, albeit dry. Turkey
Spring, 1.5 mi. steeply downhill via FR 286, is unreliable
and not worth the time or energy expenditure to visit from here.
Lookout Spring, somewhat
closer, in the trackless headwaters of Johns Canyon, was unfindable
in 2006.)
From the Trail
313 trailhead turnout, West Peak Road heads southeast, downhill,
with the undulating backbone of the Pinaleno crest unfolding away
toward still-distant, higher Mount Graham. The little-used but
well-defined dirt road soon bends northeast, descending easily
through open forest and meadow. It rounds the south-facing flanks
of Blue Jay Peak, which are incised by several shallow drainage
heads. Watch carefully just downslope from the road for Government
Spring, a cement tank in an ancient corral, which is
worth a look but rarely holds any usable water, and the surrounding
drainage is typically damp at best. A bit more than a tenth of
a mile beyond, at 7.5 (waypoint 10120, elev. 8325') an
unpretentious signboard for Clark Peak Trail 301 on the right
heralds our soon return to foot trail. (Main route description
resumes below FR 286 Alternate Route info below. See the end of
the FR 286 Alt. description for more info about potential water
options in this area.)
ALTERNATE
ROUTE: FR 286
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ELEVATION
PROFILE
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The FR
286 Alternate begins at MP 0 (waypoint 09160, elev. 5260')
of the main route in Segment 10 and follows Forest Route 286
toward West Peak. An option exists to remain on this road all
the way to the top of the 8700-foot peak and a resumption of
the main GET just beyond, while the FR 286 Alternate itself
leaves the road part-way up in order to rejoin foot trail as
soon as possible. Use of the FR 286 Alternate Route adds
1.7 miles to this segment's total length as stated at the head
of this page.
Begin by
heading west on FR 675 and passing through a vehicle camping
area in forested Tripp Canyon. In 0.1 mi, at a junction, (signed
in 2010) (waypoint 10010, elev. 5200') FR 675 meets better FR
286, onto which we turn right. (Water is often available just
east of this junction and left of the parking area; continue
past a concrete slab then down into the main
drainage of Tripp Canyon, a grassy stringer among
sycamores. Waypoint 09155) 2WD FR 286 leaves Tripp Canyon and
climbs along a prominent ridge dividing Johns and Sawmill canyons.
Follow the meandering, switchbacking road through a high desert
environment of oak, agave, and pinyon, with good outlooks toward
Blue Jay Ridge eastward as well as the Santa Teresa Mountains
and Pinnacle Ridge to the north. Ponderosa pines begin to appear
as the road approaches a junction near Dry Lake Tank. Here,
at 3.9, a minor road forks left through a pine duff-carpeted
vehicle camping area (waypoint 10080). Dry
Lake Tank, a manmade pond that ironically holds water
with some frequency, is located at the far end of the camping
area (waypoint 10090), with more pristine camping opportunities
in the forest beyond. The tank isn't reliable in times of drought,
though. And in any event, better quality water is usually available
at Sawmill Spring, located
0.4 of a mile and 300 feet downhill from the tank in the main
drainage of Sawmill Canyon. (To reach the spring, walk southeast
from the far end of the tank into the head of a minor drainage.
A use trail starts here and heads down the drainage, which soon
steepens and has occasional blowdowns. About half-way down,
the trail contours out of the drainage at right, soon passing
through a little flat that would make for a nice, secluded camp.
Leaving the flat the trail descends steeply again, then switchbacks
to the right at another blowdown in order to sidehill more gently
into the main drainage of Sawmill Canyon. Now head up the canyon
bottom to find the spring within 100 yards, several pools and
some possible flow among stubby green horsetail plants.)
FR 286 now
becomes increasingly primitive, especially beyond milepoint
5.5, where it's 4WD-accessible only. Here, at a switchback
in the road, (waypoint 10100) the main GET route turns left
onto signed Blue Jay Ridge Trail 314. (The sign itself was missing
in 2008, but its wooden post and a cairn were still in place.)
The trail may feature occasional blowdowns, and Blue Jay Ridge
often holds snow into spring, but the route is very scenic and
biologically diverse. (Otherwise, one could remain on FR 286,
passing close by the summit of West Peak and its viewful summit
firetower. At the height of land, FR 286 becomes West Peak Road
and immediately passes the upper trailhead for Johns Canyon
Trail 313, where resumes the main GET route eastbound via West
Peak Rd.)
The location
of Turkey Spring, shown
on the map where Trail 314 leaves FR 286, was first noted in
fall 2009 but was dry at the time. At the junction, look down
the steep drainage, noting a white PVC pipe sticking out of
the hillside about 50 feet below, and feel free to head (awkwardly)
on down if it appears promising. Either way, a snowmelt pool
may sometimes be present at roadside here in springtime.
Joining
the Blue Jay Ridge Trail along the FR 286 Alternate, note
the forest of spruce, hemlock, and douglas fir - exceptionally
lush for the 7500' elevation, and more typical of the environment
near Webb Peak ahead in this segment. The trail contours around
the drainage of Sawmill Canyon, then turns northward onto a
sunnier slope, where the vegetation quickly changes to ponderosa,
gamble oak, mountain mahogany, and beargrass, and interesting
views open toward the Santa Teresas.
Contour
along the base of a rocky bluff to gain the crest of Blue Jay
Ridge by a trail sign at 7.1 (not a junction). Turn sharply
right (south) and continue on the trail, switchbacking briefly
uphill, then dipping to a camp-friendly saddle among the pines
(waypoint 10115). The views along this side of the ridge, down
to the Gila Valley, are deep and impressive. The carefully-engineered
trail now ascends with the aid of short switchbacks, descends
to another saddle, then switchbacks uphill again, taking the
only feasible line through this rough terrain. Top out just
shy of peak 8529, then descend moderately to reach the trailhead
at the end of West Peak Road. (8.5, waypoint 10118).
When snow is melting you might find a little
rill in the shallow drainage just before trailhead.
Follow 4WD
West Peak Road south, with expansive views of the Pinaleno crest
ahead. About 100 yards after passing through an open gate, rejoin
the main GET route and turn left off the road onto Clark Peak
Trail 301. (9.1, waypoint 10120, elev. 8330') (Westbounders,
turn right here to follow the FR 286 Alternate Route, or left
to follow West Peak Rd on the main GET route or to FR 286.)
This is milepoint 7.5 along the main GET route.
Government Spring, a cement tank in an ancient corral,
visible just downhill off West Peak Road to the west, rarely
holds any usable water, and the surrounding drainage is typically
damp at best.
Back on
the main GET route, (7.5, waypoint 10120, elev. 8325')
Clark Peak Trail 301 begins on an old road bed reverting to nature.
Singletrack trail, improved with occasional cairns, then descends
among pinyon pine, live oak, and manzanita toward Taylor Pass.
Hikers in serious need of water might consider bushwhacking over
to Manzanita Spring (map-derived
waypoint 10130), an unverified source.
A barbed wire
fence follows the ridgeline at Taylor Pass (9.0, elev.
7150', waypoint 10140). Eastbounders here turn left to pass through
a gate in this fence, rather than continue more obviously straight
on Trail 306. Once through the gate, continue eastbound on Trail
301 up along the ridge. (Westbounders would likewise turn left
through the gate, then right to remain on Trail 301.) Switchback
up to another saddle at 9.3, (probably a few tenths of
a mile farther due to unmapped switchbacks) this one in a forested
setting with camping potential. Continue climbing via switchbacks
and occasionally vague tread (and with terribly thorny New Mexico
locust vines due to a recent minor burn) toward the edge of a
meadowy area near 10.3. The next half mile continues through
an older, quite severe burn, now mostly open grassland and ferns,
where occasional large cairns help guide the way.
Better trail
resumes beyond the meadow, where it follows the narrow ridgeline
of Clark Peak, weaving back and forth on either side of the crest.
The Carter-Nuttall Trail, which heads downhill to the north at
11.2 (elev. 8600'), might offer a bomb-off option for springtime
hikers confronting snowpack on the north and east sides of Clark
Peak. (Another unconfirmed bomb-off is back at Taylor Pass, where
the North Taylor Trail 306 heads downhill to the north.) Often,
however, the spring snowpack ahead can be negotiated, for example
where the trail soon crosses the ridge to its east side, by leaving
the bench-cut, snowbound trail to climb directly up the slope
among the trees. The trail can then be regained where it intersects
the main ridge once again, crossing back to its sunnier west side.
Reach the
trailhead terminus for Clark Peak Trail 301 at 12.2. Our
route now continues along the crest of the Pinalenos via FR 803,
also known as the Swift Trail. Constructed by the Depression-era
Civilian Conservation Corp, this portion of the scenic road (graded
dirt) is accessible to passenger vehicles when open, typically
mid April to mid November. Traffic is generally very light along
our stretch of this route. The rest of the year the road is gated
and often snowbound. Pass a picnic area with vault toilets and
trash cans in less than a mile from the trailhead, then a signed
junction with FR 287 down to Riggs Lake.
The first reliable water in this segment, the manmade lake is
located in a very attractive forested setting, and even sports
a small sand beach. At the very least, pause to fill water bottles
here, then continue along the Swift Trail. (The lake's inlet,
along its eastern shore, a small, pristine creek that drains from
a densely forested area, may also be reliable.)
Pass the pleasant
meadow of historic Chesley Flat at 15.4, then arrive at
a small roadside parking spot on the left at 16.4 (waypoint
10230, elev. 9450'), where the open drainage of Peters Flat climbs
away to the north. In springtime you may wish to remain on
FR 803, which keeps generally below 9500' and would be easy to
navigate through snowpack, then rejoin the main route at Columbine
Corrals. Instead, the main route from 16.4 climbs (ironically
enough) through Peters Flat, often in the company of a small
creeklet initially. Proceed cross-country up the sloped
meadow, soon crossing to the left of the drainage proper in search
of the easiest grade. Continue all the way up the meadow, which
is ringed by forest approaching the main ridgeline, then find
a way through the trees to the very top. Chesley Flat Trail 311
follows along the height of the broad ridge in an open area just
out of the forest. Turn right (east) on the trail (it may be unfindable
toward the west, coming from Chesley Flat) to a junction with
FR 88. Trail 311 was apparently used as a fire-break during the
large Nuttall Complex Fire of 2004, helping to spare the forested
west side of the range a similar fate as the east.
Follow FR
88 (closed to vehicles) to the summit of Webb Peak (milepoint
17.3), at 10,030 feet the highest point on the GET in Arizona.
Views from the top of the fire tower are all-encompassing: to
the south rises Mt Graham with its summit telescope housing plainly
visible; on the western horizon, the rugged profile of the Galiuro
Mountains frames more distant Rincon Peak, the Santa Rita and
Santa Catalina Mountains; northward stand the Santa Teresas and
Pinal Mountains; eastward, the folds of desert ranges along our
route extend to the edge of Gila Country, while the town of Safford
lies some 7000+ vertical feet below, alongside the Gila River
on its long and adventurous journey from New Mexico to California.
Find Webb
Peak Trail 345 by a trail sign behind the lookout cabin. Follow
it through a junction with a spur to Ash Creek Trail 307, which
may be more challenging to negotiate than the main route ahead
when snowpacked. Trail 345 ends at Columbine Corrals in about
a mile. This area serves as both a hiker/equestrian trailhead
and developed campground (fee), with tables, fire grates, and
vault toilets. Follow the loop road around to the back to find
the trailhead for Ash Creek Trail 307, at 18.3 (waypoint
10270, elev. 9480'). Traveling from the pines and aspens all the
way to the desert below, Ash Creek Trail descends 4800 net vertical
feet in nearly 7 miles, an aggressive grade, certainly, but also
a remarkable one thanks to nature's handiwork on display in Ash
Creek Canyon. Ahead lie waterfalls, towering pinnacles, and much
of the mountain ambience that one associates so fondly with the
American West. But be forewarned: due to the shady northeastern
exposure here, residual snowpack may persist in springtime all
the way down to the 8000 foot elevation; plan on a pace of no
better than one or perhaps 1.5 miles per hour when snow is a problem.
(A detour via AZ 366, with a possible hitchhike into Safford about
35 miles away by road, may be worth considering when the trail
here is deeply snowpacked. AZ 366/Swift Trail is generally open
to vehicle travel all year along its paved portion, which begins
about 7 undulating miles beyond the turnoff to Columbine Corrals.)
Trail 307
starts out on a gentle gradient, switchbacking downhill between
forks of perennial Ash Creek.
At 18.8 it fords the creek to reach a junction with Webb
Peak Trail 345, which heads back up to the summit. An old relict
here must be a boiler for a steam engine commonly used by early
loggers. Ford the creek again - lively and cold though usually
manageable during the snowmelt season - and continue downhill
on Trail 307, gently contouring and notably wide ahead as it follows
a former logging route. Cross a tributary of Ash Creek at 19.3,
where a signed trail heads up the drainage to the Southern Arizona
Bible Camp on the national forest. Ahead, Trail 307 fords Ash
Creek again, here at the site of the former Mount Graham
sawmill, now a pleasant sunny meadow with fine camping prospects.
At 20.1
(waypoint 10300), the recommended GET route turns left, climbing
out of the drainage on the Ash Creek "bypass trail,"
while the old Ash Creek Trail itself continues down the drainage
toward Ash Creek Falls and "Slick Rock," a sloping creekside
monolith which the trail has been engineered to cross. However,
this drainage-hugging section of trail in recent years has been
damaged by floods and is potentially unsafe. (The latest report
is that our Bypass Trail had been resigned as the main Ash Creek
Trail, and the old drainage route abandoned. In any case, the
"left route" here is the recommended one.)
The "bypass
trail" ascends the sunny southeast-facing wall of the canyon,
offering a potential reprieve from any snowpack. The gradual,
traversing climb gives way to a switchbacking descent, presenting
good views of the canyon below and Pinaleno crest above. Return
to the main Ash Creek Trail by a brown sign with an arrow on it
at 20.7 (waypoint 10310). Turn left here at the switchback
(or right, to scout the path for up-close views of 200-foot-high
Ash Creek Falls). (Westbounders, to proceed on the recommended
GET route, turn right, heading uphill at the switchback.)
Now Trail
307 traverses north, perhaps again with snow patches in spring.
Views ahead to the lower peaks and ridges of the range present
a striking scene, with the massive granite exposures of The Pinnacles
especially impressive. Shingle Mill Mesa Trail heads left at 21.3
(waypoint 10320, elev.7640'), the T-junction marked by a dilapidated
wooden signpost. (Westbounders, turn left here, remaining on
Trail 307.) A long series of short switchbacks doesn't quite
relieve the steep descent back down to Ash
Creek on our Trail 307. Reach the drainage at 21.7
according to the map, though in reality it's likely somewhat farther
(elev. 7049').
The trail
was formerly flood-damaged and quite rough as it headed down the
drainage from here, but was reportedly in good shape following
trail maintenance in fall 2009. Nevertheless, the footing tends
to be rocky, with frequent fords of Ash Creek, and awkward, taxing
little climbs and descents along the banks and hillsides. Tread
does seem to vanish in one area: nearing Oak Flat, the canyon
bottom widens and the creek now braids to form "islands."
The trail must ford the creek where it first disappears along
the bank, then follow one of these islands down the drainage,
where tread reappears near the main creek channel within 100 yards.
Pass a good
camp at Oak Flat - on the left (west) side of the creek - at 22.7
(waypoint 10340). This is one of the few feasible spots to camp
until reaching Ash Creek Road at segment's end. A good
spring often floods the trail just ahead, more accessible
than Ash Creek itself. Finally the trail leaves the drainage for
a spell, descending along viewful switchbacks. Near the bottom
of the pitch, close-up views of a spirited cascade delight the
senses, before the trail returns once more to the drainage (23.6,
elev. 5646').
For its elevation,
the creekside forest of Douglas fir and ponderosa pine remains
surprisingly lush as you persevere in the drainage for just a
little longer. With a final ford of Ash
Creek at 24.2 (waypoint 10360) the trail promptly
climbs out into the surrounding high desert, contouring east along
open slopes. A northward tack on good tread soon reveals the full
grandeur of Ash Creek Canyon and of the Pinalenos' eastern face
in general - a great, towering upheaval of granite and gneiss.
Trail 307
at last descends a low, blocky ridge to reach 4WD Ash Creek Road
by a cairn and metal post at 24.9 (waypoint 10370, elev.
4672').
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